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Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 97 total)
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  • Ron McFadzien
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    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15447

    Yeah I had the same response when I was playing with the abs unit I wanted a new computer and tracked down the oem manufacturer and got told the same story. They must have a pretty tight contract with them.boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15441

    Malcolm, did you make contact with Woodys Wheels.boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15438

    Malcolm I forgot to have a look tonight I will chase them up when I am in the shed tomorrow. I will advise the sizes that I have and post a picture.Gerard

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15434

    Malcolm, measure the inside diameter roughly so to speak I have a set of 3 different sizes at home that where used for the Cortina engine I will have a measure up and see what size they are tonight.Gerard

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15432

    Malcolm, before you do anything with this make sure you remove the valve so there is no air pressure in the tyre just in case it is a split rim being a tubless I doubt it but better to be safe. I am picking that the center will be well spigoted into the outer rim the nuts look to be as if a 12 point socket would fit ( old school ) most modern sockets are single hex looking at the head of the bolt its the same 12 point  which means you need either to hire borrow or buy something Ford Cortina and other cars have used those particular fasteners before so its not new but its not Torqx. Good luckGerard

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15430

    Malcom do you have a close up photo of the odd retianing bolts for the disc carrier? Cant see any detail in the photos you have up already.boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102
    in reply to: Wheels #15426

    I understand the bolts holding the disc and holder on to the wheel should be replaced with new ones if removed but would appreciate confirmation or otherwise if anyone has experience with this please.

    Malcolm, dont know about the 1200s but I have been swapping the discs between road wheels and off road wheels and never replaced the bolts yet If they havent been damaged un-doing or overtightened then they should be OK afterall you are only tightening them up into aluminium.With the 1200 GS isn't it the rear disc carrier that is splined to the hub on the 1200 that cracks definetly worth an inspection.boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    Sounds like Eddies old bike, army truck colour. boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    I've discovered an adjustment 'dial' marked with settings 1 - 4 adjacent to the RH handlebar brake lever.   What's it for ? - I can find no reference in my "Rider's Handbook" nor in Clymer "Service - Repair - Mtnce".   It's been set at #1 since I've had the bike (nearly four years). ??? ::)

    Its to adjust the distance the lever is away from the hand grip the travel should be the same at all settings ( big hands/small hands )boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    Well, I hope you are not saying that you don't have to read the road surface on tar seal? As far as knobbies go, if it makes you feel more comfortable, there is no reason not to use them on gravel roads. On a freshly graded gravel road I prefer a 21' front well with an MT21. But that Black Forest road isn't exactly a challenge on Anakee, even if they are on road pressure. You would have taken your 1100 down that bit on the last CCA, Gerard, but probably not 2 up :-). Anyway, we weren't really talking about this level of riding. I was just trying to encourage people to have a go. Get used to the looseness you'll find on gravel, pick your line and don't go too fast too soon. It's more about sightseeing anyway.Hello Alex, Happy new year how is the new house going? Why this really gets my goat is that we go to rallies where people want to learn this stuff with the other experienced GS riders around and people are not given any of this information except you will be OK ride at your own speed, so they set off on the GS ride and as the faster guys head off into the distance they try to keep up but are overiding there skill levels. Not only are they worrying about keeping up but the people passing from behind, they move over off the desired line to let some racer fly past them. This not only causes frustration and accidents but now there trusty GS which are very capable off road machine has been confined to the tarseal only to see gravel at road works. I for one hate seeing new bikes lying on there side people are there to enjoy themselves.And as for sightseeing thats for later learning to ride on gravel is what you should be doing even stopping to often breaks the concentration and rhythm, keep your eyes on the road and the brain engaged.boGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    (Just to make a point, for the following rides you do want knobbies and an R1150GS is not a good choice. Mainly because the gearing is too tall. The R1100GS had a lower first and was a little lighter.)Actually the difference in the first gear gearing between the 1100 and the 1150 is not in the gerabox but is the different final drive ratiosthe 1100 and the 1150 actuall gearbox first gear ratio is 4.1-4.2 / 1 that is 4.1 ish turns of the input shaft to 1 turn of the output shaft what sets them apart is that the 1100 has a final drive ratio of 3 / 1 and the 1150 has a final drive ratio of 2.78 / 1If you have a 1150 and want to use it for adventure riding go find an 1100 gs rear final drive and bolt it on.This makes for an excellent adventure bike and the overdrive 6th gear means you can still cruise at comfort on the open road at 3750rpm @ about 110-115kmhboGSer

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    I was interested to hear that knobblies are of no use for gravel road riding,(you're never too old to learn hey) II would not agree with this statement..... A good rider can ride with any choice of tyre and know the limitations of them and adjust his or her riding style to suit but a beginner needs all the help he can get. On these 200 plus Kg bikes with 19 inch front wheels, a knobbly certainly will help. The same as lowering the tire pressures by 5-8 psi on a tourance helps. I often laugh on adventure rides when someone pulls up at the end of the day on a 150kg bike and says boy that was a challenge and I think to myself ride one of these 1100s now thats a challenge. Yes they do fall over mostly at low speed when you go to put your foot down and you slip or as you turn at slow speed on the gravel and the front washes out, but once they are moving on the gravel they are great fun even 2 up. I think the fundamentel problem with the transition between road riding and gravel riding is the ability to read the road surface lets face it on tarseal all your looking for is the entry point apex and exit you dont worry so much about the surface its all tarseal right.On gravel you need to be looking for alot more for your speed and skill level.what sort of gravel wheel ruts mud wet dry how thick the gravel is in the centre of the road where to cross it etc etc etc.On our latest ride across the wind farm the road leading in had just been graded all the holes on the insides of the corners where full of loose gravel no wheel ruts and a bit skittish but if you rode off the gravel on the side of the road where the grader blade had just been it was nice hard pack dirt there was heaps of traction and no bike movement like being on rails.Its all about reading the road surface and putting your bike where it has to go. concentration concentration.You can do it and once you master it the satisfaction of taking a 240kg BMW to place's where others think they shouldn't be is very enjoyable especially 2 up.regards boGSer PS no photos required

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    Take it easy Mate I hope you get better soon. Maybe up and about for the pukemanu ride. As for the switch its no big job to drop the swingarm just pull the pivot pins and it all ends up on the floor may need a heat gun to loosen the loctite.regards boGSer.

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    I like adventure rides because by and large the guys who go on them are all just out to have fun, they have nothing to prove and few attitude issues.If you are not prepared to drop your bike ocasionaly. Leave it in the garage. To truly enjoy Adventure riding that is the first fear you must loose.If you dont enjoy a certain type of riding but your bike is capable of it, I dont think its compulsury to try. ???

    Colin are you trying to tell me there are no ego's on adventure rides 😮 By the way how is that shoulder of yours going? And did you get that gear selector indicator going again? I went on the GS ride down south what a blast 20 plus stream crossings on the nevis so they say and I waited until the 3rd to last before having a swim but she was a good trip.regards boGSer gerard

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    Mike good to hear that your bike is going again. Looks like Garry missed the link in my post about the previous issues you had with the hall sensors.Back to that I will say from my own experience that the hall sensors can be replaced and your bike may go for 6 months but if the wirring from the hall sensors up to the plug has not been replaced then it is going to let you down again sooner or later mine went for about 6000kms without missing a beat and then stopped. This wire needs to be capable of withstanding temperatures up to 150 deg Cgood luck boGSer

Viewing 15 posts - 46 through 60 (of 97 total)