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in reply to: Tyre size GS 800. TKC 80 ? #15998
Have a look at this. A 130 sounds a bit narow. boGSerhttp://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651726
Thanks Guys- lots of elbow grease Yes- the rest of the bike Plenty of parts in the shed- lots of patience Got that- understanding wife / partner Getting there slowly As for plenty of parts I was after an R850 final drive the reason they are low ratio 3.36 : 1only problem was it came attached to this boGSer
in reply to: OIL SEAL – WHICH WAY TO INSTALL? #15684Bryan, good to hear your back motoring again well done. 🙂 🙂 :). I am sure a couple of photos in the begining would have been a big help in sorting this out earlier. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15567Adrian well done, how do you like the ratio change? its great on the gravel.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15565Just Ride it Alex as I said the way the drive shafts are made now they can't be phased correctly as the used to be. As per the photo's on ADV it seems close enough is good enough. I think if it had real issues if you pulled the clutch in at speed you would notice it. As for the twinmax you dont need one. Buy yourself about 4 meters of clear plastic tube bend it in the middle into a U shape cable tie it to a piece of board about a meter high put some red auto transmission fluid in the bottom of the U up about 250mm on each side and then connect both ends to the ports on the throtle bodies. Start your engines and adjust to you hearts content. The worst that can happen if a tube falls of is you blow smoke out your exhaust. Safer than mercury and more accurate because oil is lighter than mercury. When you have the throtle bodies adjusted correctly then the oil in each tube will be sitting at the same height relavent to each other side by side. If they are miles out then it will get sucked up the side that has the most vacuum. Easy as.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15561Is there such a thing as a not-riding season?I guess if the snow is up over ya headlight would be a good reason to park up, but other than that?I dont like paying 5 lots of acc levy 3 bikes 2 cars so the bikes are being ridden on a rotational basis as and when required.It is now the ridding seasonboGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15559Well done, you would have a vibration coming from the driveline but it seems they dont phase them any more so there must be new thinking on that front. Back when I was replacing drive shatf universal joints, you used to have to make sure you put them back together with the joints lined up X-X but in the early 90s we noticed that Range Rover where no longer keeping there drive shaft aligned in fact I remember pulling a shaft off a new vehicle to try and fix it but it was impossible the way the shaft was welded together so we checked a few more out and they where all the same. If the bike rides the same as it did before you started just ride and enjoy.Got the good bike out of the shed at the weekend an had a shake down ride 400kms now its riding season again time to crank up some Kms.boGSerThis is as good as yo can get them now.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472815
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15552Its a bit of mucking around if you are not going to take the swingarm out. I would suggest that you remove the rear shock that way the swingarm is not in the down position you can tie it up and get at the rubber boot which has a spring clip holding it in position. To put the shaft back on the gearbox end, start it on the spline have the swingarm level IE: the drive shaft as square as possible with the shaft grab a block of wood that will fit in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer should just pop back into position. Then you can move the swingarm and check it. It pays to put a white mark on the end of the shaft so you can line up the universals as best you can. I dont think the phase up correctly the splines aren't welded in the correct place for that but get them as close as possible.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15550Hi Alex, You have to split the bearings ie: take the cup off the cone to install them anyway I wouldn't wash out the grease that is already on them, but would put some moly paste in the cup and around the outside of the cone (on and between the rollers) this will push through the cage when you push the 2 halfs back together. Did you get the Moly Paste from Blackwoods? Now you have plenty you could pull out the drive shaft and lube the splines at the same time. That is remove it from the gearbox end and the final drive end to give all the splines a good lube. A tyre lever on either side is a good tool to pop it off the circlips.Remember not to put to much preload on the bearings new ones as per manual and used a little less than spec. I read on ADV someone who overtightened the swing arm bearings and popped the side out of the gearbox housing. 7Nm is not very tight. You shouldn't have any trouble.Gerard
in reply to: OIL SEAL – WHICH WAY TO INSTALL? #15682If you dont know what you are doing take it to the bike shop. Follow this link http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0526&mospid=51710&btnr=11_3505&hg=11&fg=51and have a look there are 2 seals items #7 & #8 The water pump is driven dirrectly on the oil pump shaft In my opinion seal #8 is to keep the oil in the oil pump which means the tension spring side of the seal would go facing the oil pump and seal #7 which has a carbon face and is spring loaded will be against the face of the impellor. What was the leak oil or water?If you look closely at the housing there must be a drain hole that goes to the out side (atmosphere) because you are dealing with 2 completely different pressures Oil cold could be 75psi plus and water when it is cold could be vacuum or a maximum up to what ever pressure cap is on the cooling system.boGSer
in reply to: GASKET GOO #15583Loctite Master Gasket is good sh-t even used it on headgaskets it works. It will be available at any good outlet Blackwoods, Bay Engineers, SKF or most bearing suppliers.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15546Having read all the above I had a check of mine on the R1100s with almost 80,000km on the clock. I could find no movement at all.How come some pivot bearings need replacing so often? I did however just have to fit new oil seals in the final drive. Oil was being thrown all over the back wheel. Really helps with grip on the corners ::)
Did you visually check the large bearing cage when you had the seal out? From all I have read thats the first sign of a bearing failure the oil leak.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15540Yeah looked it up 7Nm is correct but don't overtighten as this could mark the bearing cup. you can get molly paste from Blackwoods / Paykels it used to be about 70% but they have updated back to 50% because it lubricates better and is not as dry. You could put a drop of loctite on the thread but not to much it just makes it to hard to remove next time. Its any easy job really.boGSer
in reply to: R1150XX pivot bearings #15537Alex buy your bearings from moto bins cheap as chips and easy to install. They will take about 6 days to get here and cost about $10 freight they just through them and an envelope. Not excessive packaging. If I remember rightly you tighten the inner pivot bolt to 4Nm then mark it and tighten the lock nut up I wouldn't worry about replacing the the pins unless they are showing real signs of wear just Loctite the bearings to the pins making sure they are fully seated on the pins. The standard bearings are easy as they can come out through the swingarm for removal when the need replacing. Heat will break the Loctite I have got a set of the Racing Chicken bush's in the Ruffy but would just use standard bearings in the future or make my own bush's.boGSer
Probably more chance that the bike shop leaves the wheel studs loose ( I saw this on the GS ride bike had been in for a new tire) than the wheel falling apart if the retaining bolts are reassembled with some loctite and torqued up evenly. The center disc of the wheel should be fairly well spigoted into the outer rim. I cant see a production line mucking around with dial gauges on every wheel loosening and retightening those bolts to get the wheel running true. Don't nock the number eight wire Alex some things are just over rated. Wait till you see what I am building all the BMW purists will be crying.Home made frame YZ front forks 1150 motor 1100 gearbox and paralever rear end, thought I throw all the spare parts that I had lying around together. Would you like to be the first test pilot afterall its all number eight wire.Gerard
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