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in reply to: Emission setup on NZ market bikes #5409
Try this:http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/zero528.shtmlIn 2001 I bought a 2nd hand '98 1100G/S. It too suffered from the surging issues. My friend also had a identical bike but he had bought his new and it was still under warranty.We found these instructions (have a look around the website, there are other articles as well) and altered the TPS voltage on my bike. Fortunately my 1100 owning friend is a A Grade mechanic who specialised in EFI systems. The difference was night and day. We went for a ride afterwards, swapping bikes as we went and could not get over how different they were. My bike really got off its backside when the throttle was opened, no longer backfired and no longer surged. To satisfy my statistically minded brain I kept fuel consumption before the adjustment (in the old money) 53-55mpg, after adjustment 49-50mpg so all the TPS adjustment does is pump more fuel in. As for the potentiometer I was told its nothing more than an expensive variable rheostat (?). We put the bike on a gas analyser after the TPS adjustment and adjusted it to the required readings. Then crossed referenced it against some readings we had found on the internet re voltages (or resistences?) across 2 of the poles. It was near enough. Sorry to be a bit vague on some this but I sold the bike 3 years ago and I think most of the information was in the Haynes manual that went with the bike. I recommend this alteration although if you have your bike serviced at a BMW dealer you will have to ask them not to adjust it back to the factory settings.
in reply to: RT1100 Service and faults #12413Sorry if I'm a bit late with this. Since i sold my 1100 a couple of years ago i'm now working pretty much on memory. Check the throttle cables where they come out from under the tank and follow them to the adjusters on the side of the injectors. The cable outers should fit inside a “cup”. Brushing your leg against the cable can be all it takes for them to lift out and then the fun begins. Rough running and backfiring. Also these things run incredibly lean. There is plenty of info to be found on the internet which will tell you how to richen them up a little. Makes them feel like they have gained 5-10HP. I did this on my 1100G/S (with the help of my mechanic mate who also had an 1100G/S). My bike was purchased 2nd hand so we changed that 1st and as soon as my mates was out of warranty it was the first thing he did. All you need is to know is how to use a multimeter.cheersNigel
in reply to: Intermittent ignition – R850R 1999 #11529i agree with mica…., the senders themselves will test fine, the problems will be in the wiring to the connector
in reply to: BMW R1100R Oil Change #11641put some of the fresh oil in the new filter before installing – it helps get the oil pressure up a bit quicker.
in reply to: K1100LT [1997] Front brake disk rattle #8701Hi Steve – it should rather be called Anti Squeal Paste. It holds the pads against the caliper piston. Stopped mine from rattling on my R80G/S and my R1100G/S. (still own the 80, the 1100 has gone). originally my local dealer put some on the pads, i subsequently got some more in 5 gram satchets from James Sherlocks BMW in the UK. (very good to deal with by the way)
in reply to: K1100LT [1997] Front brake disk rattle #8698have you replaced your brake pads with after market types that don't have the anti-rattle clips fitted??had similar on my R1100 - a smear of brake grease on the back of the pads fixed it
in reply to: Great Motorcycle Books #838210 Years on Two Wheelsby Helge PedersonA Norwegian chap who spent 10 years traversing the globe on an R80G/S. I believe this is now out of print and was expensive ($100) when i bought my copy about 10 years ago.
in reply to: Engine Rattle and back-firing #8246Do i win a chocolate fish? 😀
in reply to: Engine Rattle and back-firing #8241Check the throttle cables are seated in, for want of a better expression, their “adjustment cups”. That is where the outer cable ends it sits in a cup which has a threaded adjuster on it. this is right at throttle body on both sides. if it has been pulled out just slip it back in. this problem will cause these things to run like an absolute dog.its also a good thing to check if you have lifted the tank or have small children around. 🙄cheersnigel
in reply to: Rocker Bolt Welding #7722Re the Long Way Round, they should have disconnected the battery first so if you plan to do any welding on the bike at any time i repeat DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
in reply to: Greenish/Grey Gearbox Oil #7663Indeed it will be a job for Mr Visa. The local dealer has the g'box apart. not only new bearings but a new input shaft as well :-o. the bearing has turned on the shaft and the circlip next to it has machined a new groove in the shaft. overall cost will be more than what Mrs C's town runabout car cost.the question now is - does it go or does it stay??
in reply to: Rusty Nuts Southern Cross Rally #7661i ended up doing 5250km to complete this years SX, my 4th. Did the road through Jerusalem on the Saturday and the Lost World Forgotten Highway on the Sunday prior to the event and then basically did the route through to Bluff and back home to Chch. Managed a 950km day backed up by 1050km the next. At least the next day we had the morning off on the ferry.Just read on the Kiwi Biker website that the 2009 event, being the 10th will be "special". Lets see what Lee cooks up.
in reply to: BMW system 4 helmets #6209FYI – when the former Christchurch dealer closed down about 3 years ago i bought the last System 4 he had (small sized) for Mrs C. Paid $400.
The best write ups are on http://www.ukgser.com. . Check out the stickies by “Steptoe” in the technical section.
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