[peter.trub]

in reply to: R1100S Suspension #14869

One thing to remember is that recomendations are made by manufacturers. They are looking to provide a quality product. So what is quality? In terms of tyres we (the consumer) generaly look for first performance (grip etc) then wear. Wear is very much affected by (leaving compounds tread patterns etc out) pressure. So most manufacturers will recomend a high safe pressure to extend life of the tyre. Most tyres can run and still perform under normal riding pressures at less than what the manufacturers spec. Decreased pressure means softer ride  ;DThe best way I have found to set pressures to suit my riding style is: Check pressure before warming up tyre, go for a ride (thats the fun part) then recheck pressures once tyres are warm. If pressure has risen by more than 2 degrees tyres are underinflated. If not next time the tyres are cold let out a psi and redo until you reach the lowest pressure you can run your tyres at. (Note if pressure rise is more than 5 psi at manufacturers start pressure check your shocks.

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Earthquake help #14844

Anyone using a West Pac Master Card may be interested to know that Hot Points can be donated for a cash value to the Sallies ChCh aid. Simple and painless way to donate. Plus going to the sallies I know it will be used where it can do the most good  ;DWas in ChCh 24hrs before the Quake, rode Port Hills, Tunnel, Sumner, Red Cliffs etc. Joked about having lunch in the RSA. Stood and admired the Cathedrel.Got off the bike to refuel in Murchison next day and the earth moved.  😮We dont know how lucky we are  🙂

[peter.trub]

in reply to: R1100S Suspension #14867

Just to chuck in a curve ball from left field here  ;D One of the most commonly overlooked adjustments of a vehicles suspension are the tyre pressures  😮As you were men  8)

[peter.trub]

in reply to: The GS thing……..does anyone else not get it? #14406

Ah the great gravel versus tarseal on a GS challenge. What tyres? what speed? what bike?Every bike has a limit as also every rider has. Wrong bike or wrong rider and it will never work.I love the gravel roads as I can challenge myself without having to break the time/speed record for the two corners after the third one from the pub. The simple thing I have found with riding gravel is "you have to get it right".Gravel is less forgiving than tarseal so you have to get your braking done in the correct area, you have to get your lines right around corners and you have to ride within your skill level.If you dont you will fall off and hurt your shoulder  😮Simple as that.

[peter.trub]

in reply to: The GS thing……..does anyone else not get it? #14389

Loctite? what loctite  ??? was I meant to use that when I did them at the 40, 000 k service and had bits of Beemer all over the garage just so I could put some “Honda” ::) grease on some mythical splines 😉

[peter.trub]

in reply to: The GS thing……..does anyone else not get it? #14387

Ego  ??? of course there is ego  ;D What I do find is that people are more prepared to laugh with you than at you  🙂 Gear Position Indicator is still only showing 1st and 0. Plus its not consistant as sometimes the same gear has the other number  ??? However until I need to do the swing arm bearings I ain't going in there to have a look  😮Bike is all flash as again  ;D New pannier rail, new engine protectors and a few well placed hammer blows. She has a couple of new scratches but I still love her  :-*Unfortunatly shoulder is not as flash as the bike. MRI early next month then they give me the news  :-I dont hold much hope, I have regained a lot of movement but if I can find the bugger who keeps sneaking up and jamming that screwdriver into my shoulder he is a dead man  >:(Worst news is Sue wont let me go for a ride (that she knows about ::)) until the shoulder is better.

[peter.trub]

in reply to: The GS thing……..does anyone else not get it? #14385

Owning a bike suited to the track dont mean you have to race everywhere. If you like riding Harleys, sportys whatever, the only limit is “how you want to ride them”.  😀Of road (even just gravel roads) on the big fellas is fun. But it is also hard work  😮 And unfortunatly falling off is a part of it.  :'( I like adventure rides because by and large the guys who go on them are all just out to have fun, they have nothing to prove and few attitude issues.If you are not prepared to drop your bike ocasionaly. Leave it in the garage. To truly enjoy Adventure riding that is the first fear you must loose.If you dont enjoy a certain type of riding but your bike is capable of it, I dont think its compulsury to try. ???

[peter.trub]

in reply to: And now what for Auckland? #14418

Each Group should be autonomous except in matters affecting other groups or BMWOR as a whole.Each group should be self supportingIts a growth thing thats happening, keep it simple. Just a couple of thoughts  ;D

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Removing the heated handgrip #14358

What model bike are we dealing with? On my GS the plugs are under the fuel tank so its not difficult to loosen it off then slide the tank back far enough to access the plugs.Once you have the plug dissconnected you will need a small flat bladed screwdriver to slide down between the plug and the terminal to depress the tang, then you will be able to remove the terminal from the plug to allow the wires to be pulled through the handle bars.I stress again that these are small wires and easily damaged. Work slowly  😀

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Removing the heated handgrip #14356

Which end? They go into a plug at the bike end and thru the handle bars at the other. You need to be gentle with these as they are a fine wire and easily damaged. The plug end is the only end that dissconnects so i am hoping thats the end you have been yanking on. Study the plug, it will have a release mechinism that you need to activate at the same time as you dissconnect it.The wires need to then be taken out of the plug to allow them to be pulled thru the handle bars. Remember to put a draw wire on as you pull them thru so you have something to pull them back with.Hope this helps some  😀

[peter.trub]

in reply to: BMWOR Newsletter by Email? #14178

I like to read things on paper as I lie in bed or sit in the study. I have a computer (doh) but like to dissconect myself from it sometimes. My wife also likes to browse it. If it arrived in we would print it out, so there go all your tree hugging saveings sorry.Perhaps both options with a choice? Looking at last balance sheet in newsletter we dont seem to be bordering on the poverty line, perhaps instead of just trying to safe we can utilise what we have differently/better?

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Long-term reliability of BMW RTs #14042

How to do a clutch job on a beemer, start at the back and work your way towards the front until you find it  😮Ok so opposed to a japper with a wet clutch where you take off a cover and you are in this sounds bad.  😥 Hang about though  😉How replace the spark plugs on a four cylinder Jappa, first dismantle (without scratching please) a shit load of fairings and covers, remove fuel tank keep going in until you find the engine  😕To replace the plugs on an R series, first find a comfortable stool  😀You get my drift, you can focus on the whole picture or just look at the poorly painted bits  😀

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Input shaft and clutch spline damage #13693

To grease or not to grease That is the question. I err on the side of caution and have just greased my clutch splines plus the driveshaft input and output splines.Have followed all the arguements for and against and as I can do the job myself I figuire its cheap insurance. Grease of choice is Honda Moly 60. Highest Moly content base grease commonly avaliable.  😀

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Chrome plating #13913

All is not lost Malcom, dont sweat it to much, just make sure you use a good grade of metal polish to finish off and you should be ok (sounds like the steel wool you used was a fine grade so may not have contaminated the Stainless to deeply) If you ever need to wire brush it make sure you use a brush with bronze wires.Best way to polish it is to buy a buffing wheel that can fit in you drill and Stainless Polish. Then never use it to polish steelGood Luck  😀

[peter.trub]

in reply to: Chrome plating #13911

A quick word to the wise, dont use steel wool on Stainless steel 😀Any work done on stainless should be done with tools only used for stainless, files etc. The reason for this is that Stainless will rust if it is contaminated with any low grade steel (eg steel wool) Hate to see all that hard work polishing go to waste  😮

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