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  • Folker Liebenow
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    Post count: 10

    How could this NOT be good news. I don't know how they could make it worse…

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Yawn. Isn't it time for you all to move on…………. 😕

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Thought the painter in the white overalls looked a little strange. Must be double jointed. See the craftsmanship….

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10
    in reply to: 450 photo’s #10363

    Can't really see where I'll be able to attach the panniers. 

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10
    in reply to: R75 /6 report #10228

    Motorworks in the UK do some cast iron discs, cheaper than original, which brake a heap better than the standard BMW stainless discs as well. They aren't drilled, so you don't end up with cracked discs either. Their website is http://www.motorworks.co.uk. They could also provide braided lines – just make sure that they have the appropriate standard printed on them to keep the WoF man happy. I get all of my parts from either them or Motobins now (both in the UK). Allow 10 days for freight, try to keep shipments under NZD 400 to avoid GST. They don't charge VAT for export. For tyres – I'm using Metzlers now, simply for availability, as other stawarts are no longer available, so can't recommend anything other, but would be interested in other peoples experiences. For the older bike I use a ME77 in the rear, which I find better than the ME99 for that application. Just make sure you get the right speed rating (H). You can rebuilt the Konis. The tooling for these was purchased by IKON in Aus when Koni went out of m/cycle shock production. Any of the suspension guru could likely do this for you if you don't feel confident doing it yourself.      

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Wellington from Napier via Palmerston North is the fastest by under an hr. Budget about 3 hrs. But via the Wairarapa is more fun, especially if you take some of the alternate routes. And then you also have the Rimutakas.  😀

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    A car jack operating on a heavy object (say a car – jacking against the towbar) has always worked fine for me. You need to snug the jack as much as possible up to (but not touching) the rim. Once the initial bead has been broken, then proceed as normal. Also works well on tubed tyres that have 'bonded' to the rims.  🙂 

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Too late, you've responded on a BMW forum….. 😮

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    Hi Bryan. The BMW Man had a go at this, & posted the results on his site. Here's the link http://www.bmwman.biz/. Good luck with it. Like the others, I'd be dubious about plastic bobbins. Are you sure that they haven't been plastic coated? Steve 

    Folker Liebenow
    Participant
    Post count: 10

    I suggest that you have a look on the http://www.motobins.co.uk website, under hints & tips. Whilst it seems rather brutal, it does work. Unfortunately a known fault for airhead fuel caps.    😥

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