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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 84 total)
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  • dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: R80 GS #10616

    Thanks Alex, that looks great. 😀 😀 😀 😀

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: R80 GS #10614

    The tripple clamp bolt holes must be a modification since the 80 / 86 GS's, I have just checked and it isn't listed against the 96 GS Basic. Dimensions of the lower one would assist though.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: R80 GS #10612

    The Y bracket is the bottom one, there is a left hand and a right hand angle bracket at the top.Thanks for coming back to me.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: R80 GS #10610

    Hi Alex, Yes the headlight assemblys are the same so the brackets will be the same also.Cheers, Steve.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    Could be the main frame loom has chafed through somewhere, 😐 or some of the teminals have lost conductivity, 😮 check the earth cable, maybe run a separate one from the Starter motor to the Neg terminal. The normal earth path from the starter motor isn't the best. 😳 It is a matter of elimination. good luck. 😀 😀

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: Speedo accuracy #10560

    Airhead speedo's often over read by around 10%. Within 2 years of having a speedo rebuilt  and recalibrated by Robinson's I was back to over reading by 10%.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    Congratulations Alex, It sounds like all the fettling has paid off.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    TRY this guy in auckland    dont know any history of this one but worth a try.OR TRY Craig at Hamco industries  06 3248345  or  0272317864, been around for years if it can be done he can do it!!

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    you can get the rim straightened by adjusting the spokes. If it has a dent try the guy in cambridge, or the judicious use of a block of wood etc.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: R75 /6 report #10230

    Eurobike in New Plymouth can do the Koni rebuild and the braided lines. They used to be the Koni importer, and I believe they kept the rebuild kits when they changed to importing Hagon.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    Nick Ploeg has purchased all of Walters BMW bits.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    Re the staked/bruised screws I have both carefully ground them with a rotary burr and have also equally carefully drilled them. A light centre pop will be enough to centralize the drill bit. But be careful to support the otherside of the butterfly shaft when you pop it so it doesn't get bent, also support it if/when you rebruise the end of the screw. Far more reliable than the locktite route.I gather the loose part you are talking about is the round plug on the top of the diaphragm housing, it should be tight.A part that often gets over looked for replacement is the needle and the needle jet. this is the part in the centre of your picture, the 2nd piece below the main jet housing body. It will have a no. on it. Neil should have them in stock, just don't replace the one without the other. this will have an immediate effect on reducing fuel consumption, and yes replace the spring. email me on if I can be of further assistance.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    Often you will find the choke gasket has deformed and no longer seals properly. Replaceing the carb main shaft “o”ring can be difficult as the screws that holt the butterfly to the shaft have been bruised where they protrude through the shaft, this bruising needs to be relieved before attempting to undo the screws. Otherwise you will damage the slot and it will be even more difficult to undo. replace these screws on reassembly. I have locktited them occasionally when they haven't been imediately available without any repercussions. If not bruised / locktited they may be swallowed along with the butterfly, the valves have a difficult time digesting them and that cylinder can/will be out of action. I recommended that you do “ALL the 'O' rings as to have to redo the job can be a PITA. Also allowing the carb body to soak in carb cleaner softens any scale that can block the tiny airways, before being blown out.

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86

    “Back to the future” good choice! 🙂 😉

    dave.valma
    Participant
    Post count: 86
    in reply to: Yet another one #9989

    SS valve head welded to a non SS stem been that way for many years

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 84 total)