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in reply to: wiring problems R100/7 #10566
Could be the main frame loom has chafed through somewhere, 😐 or some of the teminals have lost conductivity, 😮 check the earth cable, maybe run a separate one from the Starter motor to the Neg terminal. The normal earth path from the starter motor isn't the best. 😳 It is a matter of elimination. good luck. 😀 😀
in reply to: Speedo accuracy #10560Airhead speedo's often over read by around 10%. Within 2 years of having a speedo rebuilt and recalibrated by Robinson's I was back to over reading by 10%.
in reply to: R80GS high fuel consumption #9719Congratulations Alex, It sounds like all the fettling has paid off.
in reply to: Dakar front wheel rim #10293TRY this guy in auckland dont know any history of this one but worth a try.OR TRY Craig at Hamco industries 06 3248345 or 0272317864, been around for years if it can be done he can do it!!
in reply to: Dakar front wheel rim #10285you can get the rim straightened by adjusting the spokes. If it has a dent try the guy in cambridge, or the judicious use of a block of wood etc.
in reply to: R75 /6 report #10230Eurobike in New Plymouth can do the Koni rebuild and the braided lines. They used to be the Koni importer, and I believe they kept the rebuild kits when they changed to importing Hagon.
in reply to: R100/7 Replacement clocks #10186Nick Ploeg has purchased all of Walters BMW bits.
in reply to: Bing carb overhaul (only for airheads :-) #10152Re the staked/bruised screws I have both carefully ground them with a rotary burr and have also equally carefully drilled them. A light centre pop will be enough to centralize the drill bit. But be careful to support the otherside of the butterfly shaft when you pop it so it doesn't get bent, also support it if/when you rebruise the end of the screw. Far more reliable than the locktite route.I gather the loose part you are talking about is the round plug on the top of the diaphragm housing, it should be tight.A part that often gets over looked for replacement is the needle and the needle jet. this is the part in the centre of your picture, the 2nd piece below the main jet housing body. It will have a no. on it. Neil should have them in stock, just don't replace the one without the other. this will have an immediate effect on reducing fuel consumption, and yes replace the spring. email me on if I can be of further assistance.
in reply to: Bing carb overhaul (only for airheads :-) #10148Often you will find the choke gasket has deformed and no longer seals properly. Replaceing the carb main shaft “o”ring can be difficult as the screws that holt the butterfly to the shaft have been bruised where they protrude through the shaft, this bruising needs to be relieved before attempting to undo the screws. Otherwise you will damage the slot and it will be even more difficult to undo. replace these screws on reassembly. I have locktited them occasionally when they haven't been imediately available without any repercussions. If not bruised / locktited they may be swallowed along with the butterfly, the valves have a difficult time digesting them and that cylinder can/will be out of action. I recommended that you do “ALL the 'O' rings as to have to redo the job can be a PITA. Also allowing the carb body to soak in carb cleaner softens any scale that can block the tiny airways, before being blown out.
in reply to: A perfect bike? No such thing #7381“Back to the future” good choice! 🙂 😉
in reply to: Yet another one #9989SS valve head welded to a non SS stem been that way for many years
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