Wheels

[Richard Kuysten]

#3734

I understand the bolts holding the disc and holder on to the wheel should be replaced with new ones if removed but would appreciate confirmation or otherwise if anyone has experience with this please.

[Dave Ross]

#15425

For peace of mind I'd say replace them.

[Ron McFadzien]

#15426

I understand the bolts holding the disc and holder on to the wheel should be replaced with new ones if removed but would appreciate confirmation or otherwise if anyone has experience with this please.

Malcolm, dont know about the 1200s but I have been swapping the discs between road wheels and off road wheels and never replaced the bolts yet If they havent been damaged un-doing or overtightened then they should be OK afterall you are only tightening them up into aluminium.With the 1200 GS isn't it the rear disc carrier that is splined to the hub on the 1200 that cracks definetly worth an inspection.boGSer

[Richard Kuysten]

#15427

Hi Gerard, thanks for the info it's the practical experience that counts.  The bike in question is not my trusty GS but the C which is currently de registered and sitting on the hoist with the front forks off ready for new seals.  While in this condition I thought I'd clean up the forks and wheel which has some nasty corrosion that requires attention.Hi to Cathy, Malcolm

[Richard Kuysten]

#15428

OK guys, further to removing the disc and carrier I find that the wheels on the Independent (cast 3 spoke hub bolted to an ali rim with very unusual fasteners is not designed to be taken apart.  I could risk it in the hope that I could find some fasteners that I could replace the originals with but I'm very reluctant to do that at this point.  I'm told the ali rim is most probably anodised and I'm wondering if any of you know anything about sand/bead etc blasting and whether I could mask the hub and have the rim blasted back to bare smooth aluminium, I would then just keep them polished as I will be doing with the front forks.    Pics show rim and hub.  The rim has a flange in the centre about 25mm and the hub overlaps this on the opposite side being bolted through with odd fasteners.  As always advice will be very much appreciated.

[Dave Ross]

#15429

In Germany you would probably not get a warrant if you messed with the wheels like that. Engineers put a lot of thought into the structural integrity of wheels. If you are going to have it done, make sure it's not just some backyard bead blasting workshop, but someone who specialises in wheel repairs. I'd say sandblasting is completely off the cards.

[Ron McFadzien]

#15430

Malcom do you have a close up photo of the odd retianing bolts for the disc carrier? Cant see any detail in the photos you have up already.boGSer

[Richard Kuysten]

#15431

Hi Gerard, these should be clearer, they are not the bolts off the carrier rather the bolts that hold the hub to the rim.  There's no problem getting those for disc to carrier or those that hold the carrier to the hub.  But these things!!!!!  I have come across some posts on the Chromehead site where guys have had the whole wheel chromed so I'm assuming it is possible to split the wheel, just not sure though if the fasteners were replaced with something else or just replaced.

[Ron McFadzien]

#15432

Malcolm, before you do anything with this make sure you remove the valve so there is no air pressure in the tyre just in case it is a split rim being a tubless I doubt it but better to be safe. I am picking that the center will be well spigoted into the outer rim the nuts look to be as if a 12 point socket would fit ( old school ) most modern sockets are single hex looking at the head of the bolt its the same 12 point  which means you need either to hire borrow or buy something Ford Cortina and other cars have used those particular fasteners before so its not new but its not Torqx. Good luckGerard

[Richard Kuysten]

#15433

Thanks Gerard, Cortina eh – never owned an old Ford and the Ford I did own was far too technical for my simple skills.If it gets to the point where I decide to do I will remove the tyre first just in case.  I'll wait a while just in case I get some useful info from the Chromeheads.  I had a reply today but the guy sent the wheels away to be done and didn't have any knowledge of how or if.Just putting the new seals in and will refit the very shiny forks later (have to buy some loctite).I'll keep you posted.Malcolm

[Ron McFadzien]

#15434

Malcolm, measure the inside diameter roughly so to speak I have a set of 3 different sizes at home that where used for the Cortina engine I will have a measure up and see what size they are tonight.Gerard

[Richard Kuysten]

#15435

OK not entirely sure about the “inside” measurement but the end of the “bolt” protruding from the “nut” is 6mm and the hole where you would put your tool is also 6mm.  Both the nut and bolt are recessed both sides and this hole is 12mm.  Hope that is what you were looking for  :-

[Anonymous]

#15436

the fastenings are likely metric, so a 12 point socket is readily available, by itself from friends or commercial suppliers, for the nut and of course an ordinary hex key will fit the twelve point recess. No biggy to dismantle but replacement items or alternatives? any funny shoulders or shapings along the fasteners or undue corrosion/damage found on removal could put a hex on it. genuine BMW parts,$$$$$. i suspect these items to be high tensile with hi torque settings, hence the increased bearing area of twelve point tooling.

[Richard Kuysten]

#15437

Thanks for the useful input arty.  BMW don't make a replacement for the fastenings (stainless I think) as they don't expect the wheel to be taken apart.  

[Ron McFadzien]

#15438

Malcolm I forgot to have a look tonight I will chase them up when I am in the shed tomorrow. I will advise the sizes that I have and post a picture.Gerard

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