Home Forums General Discussion The GS thing……..does anyone else not get it?

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  • Dave Ross
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    Post count: 2310

    Off-road and gravel is not really the same. On most gravel roads knobbies make very little difference. Some gravel roads are as easy to ride on as seal. Loose gravel requires a different riding style to road riding. Beginners usually get overwhelmed by all the feedback they get from the bike. Most of this can be ignored. You need to relax, and point the bike where you want to go. Do not let the bike "float". By that I mean that your are either on the power, or you are braking. The front brake still does most of that. In a straight line you will have lots of traction on most surfaces. The tricky bits are corners with loose metal. For those you need to be slow, but still have enough speed so that you don't stall or lose steering input. You should probably be standing up. You initiate the turn by weighing the inside peg. This allows you to lean the bike below you. You then immediately put your weight on the outside peg. Your body doesn't lean with the bike, because you need to maintain the centre of gravity above the contact patch of the wheels. In other words,  it's all about balance.  The 1150GS is fine for gravel roads. The only time you'll curse its weight is if you've stopped/stalled on a steep hill and want to get going again. That's not likely to happen without help. On that note, don't try to hold a falling bike. Just let it go. Don't try to pick it up immediately. Think first. sometimes, while you're still thinking, other people will rush to pick it up :-). Don't try to lift it against the hill. If you are alone, spin it on the cylinder heads so the wheels face down hill. Put it in gear, so it won't roll away from you. Don't worry if you've dropped your bike. It's a GS not an RT. If it was an RT, well you should have bought a proper bike for gravel roads.

    Anonymous
    Guest
    Post count: 2134

    Kokopelli said, “If it was an RT, well you should have bought a proper bike for gravel roads.”Same applies to R-eleven-hundy-esses: every time I stray off the tarseal I spend more time thinking about the replacement cost of the tupperware than I do about anything else, yet I'm still programmed to, "Just see what's around the next corner - and the next, recurring."I should have kept my Yamaha AG100A: proper motorbike with a side stand on BOTH sides, to allow for the lay of the land, and a big comfie seat, like no full on chook chaser, and go nearly anywhere, huge carriers for the dog or your fencing/camping/barbecuing gear, run all day on a tank of gas, all week on a bit of twostroke oil, 'bout half as long as you need to on a sparkplug - but they thought to put two of them in the head, so you could swap the lead to the other one.

    Anonymous
    Inactive
    Post count: 182

    Off-road and gravel is not really the same. On most gravel roads knobbies make very little difference. Some gravel roads are as easy to ride on as seal. Loose gravel requires a different riding style to road riding. Beginners usually get overwhelmed by all the feedback they get from the bike. Most of this can be ignored. You need to relax, and point the bike where you want to go. Do not let the bike "float". By that I mean that your are either on the power, or you are braking. The front brake still does most of that. In a straight line you will have lots of traction on most surfaces. The tricky bits are corners with loose metal. For those you need to be slow, but still have enough speed so that you don't stall or lose steering input. You should probably be standing up. You initiate the turn by weighing the inside peg. This allows you to lean the bike below you. You then immediately put your weight on the outside peg. Your body doesn't lean with the bike, because you need to maintain the centre of gravity above the contact patch of the wheels. In other words,  it's all about balance.  The 1150GS is fine for gravel roads. The only time you'll curse its weight is if you've stopped/stalled on a steep hill and want to get going again. That's not likely to happen without help. On that note, don't try to hold a falling bike. Just let it go. Don't try to pick it up immediately. Think first. sometimes, while you're still thinking, other people will rush to pick it up :-). Don't try to lift it against the hill. If you are alone, spin it on the cylinder heads so the wheels face down hill. Put it in gear, so it won't roll away from you. Don't worry if you've dropped your bike. It's a GS not an RT. If it was an RT, well you should have bought a proper bike for gravel roads.

    Some great advice there Alex,I still think a GS1150 is a bit too much of a beastie for a novice to take on the gravel before practicing with somethig lighter first !!I was interested to hear that knobblies are of no use for gravel road riding,(you're never too old to learn hey) I would love to go exploring the gravel roads here in N.Z.,we did not have any in the U.K. our roads are all either Tarmac or dedicated green lane roads (mud in winter)(dirt for the two days of summer !!) my old trusty XT 350 was more than adequate for this application.Idealy I would love two bikes one for the gravel and one for the touring which I now enjoy so much,but we already have the MG, the GS, and a four wheel drive, so Mr Keys makes more than enough revenue out of us already and our insurance bill is not funny either!!!I have to say that having made a few trips on gravel on the GS I did not feel comfortable with it and as I am quickly approaching my "use by date" I think I will stick with a comfy seat,reasonably predictable roads and all the amenities that come with them....Meanwhile I will take solice in veiwing all the wonderful pictures that you will hopefully be posting in the future.

    Dave Ross
    Moderator
    Post count: 2310

    Gerda and I at the start of the Black Forest Station Rd. South Island last year. It was a bit wet.4277358070_528f25241d_o.jpgHere we are on our way.IMG_0452.jpgGerda showing how it's doneIMG_0453.jpgThere were a few roughish bits and a couple of minor water crossings.She got through alright. While she's not riding an 1150, it's still a 200kg bike. You can she that she's on tippy-toes in the first picture.Learn by doing :-).

    Dave Ross
    Moderator
    Post count: 2310

    Just to make a point, for the following rides you do want knobbies and an R1150GS is not a good choice. Mainly because the gearing is too tall. The R1100GS had a lower first and was a little lighter.I used my R80GS (214kg) for this with appropriate tyres.DSC00384.jpgHere the Gs is just resting. The guy further down had lost control of his DR650. He nearly took me out on the way down. DSC00961.jpgThis was the roadDSC00962.jpg

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    I was interested to hear that knobblies are of no use for gravel road riding,(you're never too old to learn hey) II would not agree with this statement..... A good rider can ride with any choice of tyre and know the limitations of them and adjust his or her riding style to suit but a beginner needs all the help he can get. On these 200 plus Kg bikes with 19 inch front wheels, a knobbly certainly will help. The same as lowering the tire pressures by 5-8 psi on a tourance helps. I often laugh on adventure rides when someone pulls up at the end of the day on a 150kg bike and says boy that was a challenge and I think to myself ride one of these 1100s now thats a challenge. Yes they do fall over mostly at low speed when you go to put your foot down and you slip or as you turn at slow speed on the gravel and the front washes out, but once they are moving on the gravel they are great fun even 2 up. I think the fundamentel problem with the transition between road riding and gravel riding is the ability to read the road surface lets face it on tarseal all your looking for is the entry point apex and exit you dont worry so much about the surface its all tarseal right.On gravel you need to be looking for alot more for your speed and skill level.what sort of gravel wheel ruts mud wet dry how thick the gravel is in the centre of the road where to cross it etc etc etc.On our latest ride across the wind farm the road leading in had just been graded all the holes on the insides of the corners where full of loose gravel no wheel ruts and a bit skittish but if you rode off the gravel on the side of the road where the grader blade had just been it was nice hard pack dirt there was heaps of traction and no bike movement like being on rails.Its all about reading the road surface and putting your bike where it has to go. concentration concentration.You can do it and once you master it the satisfaction of taking a 240kg BMW to place's where others think they shouldn't be is very enjoyable especially 2 up.regards boGSer PS no photos required

    Clive Lawrence
    Participant
    Post count: 131

    This is great reading. Gravel or off road isn't for everyone. I just hate being afraid of anything.If I can get out and increase my skills and have a laugh at the end of the day then I'm up for it!Isn't that what we are all about? Only another few months and I'll get my baby out for a good ride.

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    (Just to make a point, for the following rides you do want knobbies and an R1150GS is not a good choice. Mainly because the gearing is too tall. The R1100GS had a lower first and was a little lighter.)Actually the difference in the first gear gearing between the 1100 and the 1150 is not in the gerabox but is the different final drive ratiosthe 1100 and the 1150 actuall gearbox first gear ratio is 4.1-4.2 / 1 that is 4.1 ish turns of the input shaft to 1 turn of the output shaft what sets them apart is that the 1100 has a final drive ratio of 3 / 1 and the 1150 has a final drive ratio of 2.78 / 1If you have a 1150 and want to use it for adventure riding go find an 1100 gs rear final drive and bolt it on.This makes for an excellent adventure bike and the overdrive 6th gear means you can still cruise at comfort on the open road at 3750rpm @ about 110-115kmhboGSer

    Dave Ross
    Moderator
    Post count: 2310

    I think the fundamentel problem with the transition between road riding and gravel riding is the ability to read the road surface lets face it on tarseal all your looking for is the entry point apex and exit you dont worry so much about the surface its all tarseal right.

    Well, I hope you are not saying that you don't have to read the road surface on tar seal? As far as knobbies go, if it makes you feel more comfortable, there is no reason not to use them on gravel roads. On a freshly graded gravel road I prefer a 21' front well with an MT21. But that Black Forest road isn't exactly a challenge on Anakee, even if they are on road pressure. You would have taken your 1100 down that bit on the last CCA, Gerard, but probably not 2 up :-). Anyway, we weren't really talking about this level of riding. I was just trying to encourage people to have a go. Get used to the looseness you'll find on gravel, pick your line and don't go too fast too soon. It's more about sightseeing anyway.

    Ron McFadzien
    Participant
    Post count: 102

    Well, I hope you are not saying that you don't have to read the road surface on tar seal? As far as knobbies go, if it makes you feel more comfortable, there is no reason not to use them on gravel roads. On a freshly graded gravel road I prefer a 21' front well with an MT21. But that Black Forest road isn't exactly a challenge on Anakee, even if they are on road pressure. You would have taken your 1100 down that bit on the last CCA, Gerard, but probably not 2 up :-). Anyway, we weren't really talking about this level of riding. I was just trying to encourage people to have a go. Get used to the looseness you'll find on gravel, pick your line and don't go too fast too soon. It's more about sightseeing anyway.Hello Alex, Happy new year how is the new house going? Why this really gets my goat is that we go to rallies where people want to learn this stuff with the other experienced GS riders around and people are not given any of this information except you will be OK ride at your own speed, so they set off on the GS ride and as the faster guys head off into the distance they try to keep up but are overiding there skill levels. Not only are they worrying about keeping up but the people passing from behind, they move over off the desired line to let some racer fly past them. This not only causes frustration and accidents but now there trusty GS which are very capable off road machine has been confined to the tarseal only to see gravel at road works. I for one hate seeing new bikes lying on there side people are there to enjoy themselves.And as for sightseeing thats for later learning to ride on gravel is what you should be doing even stopping to often breaks the concentration and rhythm, keep your eyes on the road and the brain engaged.boGSer

    Dave Ross
    Moderator
    Post count: 2310

    Happy New Year to  you too. The house is going slowly ahead. We should be able to move in by March. Were you at the Rally? We had to give it amiss this year, but are already looking forward to Cromwell 2012.

    Dave Ross
    Moderator
    Post count: 2310

    Here is a video clip from today.Going to Kawhiahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lW4U_JQlxkleaving Kawhiahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uweo9Y3XCww

    peter.trub
    Participant
    Post count: 267

    Ah the great gravel versus tarseal on a GS challenge. What tyres? what speed? what bike?Every bike has a limit as also every rider has. Wrong bike or wrong rider and it will never work.I love the gravel roads as I can challenge myself without having to break the time/speed record for the two corners after the third one from the pub. The simple thing I have found with riding gravel is "you have to get it right".Gravel is less forgiving than tarseal so you have to get your braking done in the correct area, you have to get your lines right around corners and you have to ride within your skill level.If you dont you will fall off and hurt your shoulder  😮Simple as that.

    janejohnstewart
    Participant
    Post count: 96

    I suppose I should chime in with another take on the GS thing, seeing as I've got a couple.Basically I bought the 1150 because the riding position suits my back, simple as that.Others here have mentioned about the bike's ability to carve the corners and yes, I've actually had a blast taking the beast around Pukekohe awhile back.I've also done the two-up long distance touring thing with a couple of 11 hour days in the saddle and the ex asleep behind me for part of the time.However, knowing my own limitations there's no way I would dream of taking the thing further off road than well graded gravel, but I've met a few who do, regularly.Others have mentioned the gearing on the 1150, and mine has the "economy" 6th gear, which means that the bike will barely pull in 6th at legal speeds.  This wasn't a problem in the UK or Europe as speeds are generally higher, but with the attitude of law enforcement here in NZ I'm seriously considering fitting a shorter final drive, and rather than the 1100 unit I'm actually considering going the whole hog the final drive from an 850 GS.When it comes to the 80, well ... it's a modern classic IMO, however I didn't buy it with any delusions of taking it off road.  Off the tar seal, yes, but more than that, no way.I suppose what I'm getting at is that there are some of us with GS's that don't consider ourselves or our bikes to be full on adventurers, just very capable machines in a range of roles.My name is John, and I own a GS (or two) ...  ;D

    Dave Morris
    Participant
    Post count: 615

    My name is John, and I own a GS (or two) ...  ;D

    you forgot to mention the most important thing"I am Pom"and amazingly I have never heard you whinge. A model of this breed not found.  ::) (forgot to put in the word often) after found

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