Home › Forums › Motorcycle Tech Talk › Suspension servicing and suggestions
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AnonymousInactive13/03/2013 at 4:47 amPost count: 41
After 20 years of BMWOR NZ membership, I've finally joined the electronic age!! We own a 2005 R1200ST bought new from Mt Motorcycles in 05. Our third BMW after a new K75S in 87, then a 2nd hand R1100RS, then the ST. The ST is currently heading towards 110,000k's, with one rebuild of the final drive at 100,000, and Ohlins almost from new. Anyone else got this sort of distance on an ST? The bike is used regularly, almost always two-up and I have run through many versions of springs, and valve configurations to get to a good handling bike. Happy to pass this on to any otherscheersGreg 1154
In the forum tradition, a big welcome and see you on the road perhaps.
AnonymousInactive13/03/2013 at 5:47 amPost count: 41Hi CruiserboyThanks for that. Haven't had the bike out lately, an unexpected week in hospital has put the brake on for a week or so, hopefully this weekend....
encouraging post Greg – I've had this obsession with the brand since the 60's as a teen in Dunedin and been spending too much money on them since '92 – K75, R65, R100GS, R1100GS, F650GS Dakar (to improve gravel / adv skills), R1150GS last 7 years and since November last 08 R1200GS – brings a huge smile to my face – loving the lighter weight and am inspired by your K's / service experience on your R12Lust after Ohlins - yet have trouble justifying them on my 20,000km machine - maybe later - spending the retirement / kids inheritanceMay meet you out there some time - Stephen aka Aslan
AnonymousInactive23/03/2013 at 7:35 amPost count: 41Hi AslanWe racked up 70,000k's on the K75, and the only thing we did to it was put a Koni shock on, it survived killing two sheep on the Coromandel loop 6 months after we bought it. The 1100 had 140,000+ k's on it with Ohlins rear shock and a gearbox rebuild at around 100,000, and is still going with over 200,000 on it. When we got the 1200ST the rear shock just wasn't up to it from new. We were hanging up the main stand on any decent bump and were in danger of throwing it down the road. Being averse to pain we went the Ohlins way. Expensive yes, worth it YES, especially when you figure out how to set them up. Once the Ohlins went on, the tyres lasted longer, and the ride got safer. For us the issue was getting the back of the bike into the correct static sag zone, so that the front end could work properly, and so that I could get a proper feel for what the dampening was doing. Standard Ohlins for the ST is a 17NM spring and way way too much high speed compression dampening. I'm running a 20NM spring with almost no high speed compression, but an increase in the low speed compression dampening. The perfect spring would be a 19.5NM I suspect, but you can chase these things forever if you are not careful. I like to fiddle.... With this setup I run one less click on the rebound dampening than standard so have comfort and control, well as much as NZ roads allow.
again Greg – thanks for your note – I'll certainly seriously consider upgrading the stock shocks on my GS to Ohlins. Did you replace both on your ST or just the rear? Do you know - suppose one was to do only one at a time - spreading the expenditure - which would be the recommended one to do first?Cheers S
AnonymousInactive23/03/2013 at 11:01 amPost count: 289again Greg - thanks for your note - I'll certainly seriously consider upgrading the stock shocks on my GS to Ohlins. Did you replace both on your ST or just the rear? Do you know - suppose one was to do only one at a time - spreading the expenditure - which would be the recommended one to do first?
Depending on which GS you have (and which suspension) and your budget, I've got the Ohlins Mechatronic in my GS Adventure. Tis brilliant compared to the stock stuff, but not cheap ($5k + fitting).In terms of spreading expenditure, the suspension does work together, ie, it's best to do them together, but otherwise, I'd do the rear first.
AnonymousInactive23/03/2013 at 11:22 pmPost count: 41I started with an Ohlins on the back of the 1200 within 5000 from new, the standard just wasn't up to two-up and luggage. We couldn't do anything with the front until the back of the bike was in the correct position (steering geometry and all that stuff). We eventually did the front as well, but the big improvement came from the rear. On our 1100 I stayed with standard front shocks all the way from 20,000 to 140000k's. I did replace one front though. If you only ride one-up, then a basic emulsion shock is prob good enough. The more spec's you put into a shock the larger the price tag. Our shock has only rebound adjustment and a remote hydraulic preloader. You change the compression dampening etc by altering the shim stacks internally. If you get Robert Taylor the Ohlins dealer in New Plymouth your specs then he will be pretty close from the outset. I think our rear shock was around $1500, in 2005. The front was $100-300 cheaper.Gremlin is right, you get the best advantage from doing both ends, depends on how much you can afford. Or in some cases, can you afford not to do it.
AnonymousInactive24/03/2013 at 7:13 amPost count: 41AslanI forgot to mention, an alternative and likely cheaper option would be to get your standard BMW shocks serviced. Robert Taylor can do them, as can guys like Mark Patterson at the KTM/Kawasaki dealer in Rotorua. You just need to know what you want altered about them. y experience, for what it's worth, was that the spring rate was too light, but some extra preloading can be achieved with a shim under the spring of suitable thickness. We did that with our R1100 and it helped some (5mm was I think what I tried). The low speed compression could also be beefed up to stop the bike and load driving through the spring. If you know what you are after it might be worth exploring if cost is a concern
AnonymousInactive24/03/2013 at 10:33 amPost count: 289Greg, in my 2010 R1200GSA at least, the suspension is not serviceable. Naturally, with no service interval, it's life is dependent on how it feels to you, and it's expected you buy another set when required.At $4800 +GST, + fitting, that's a bit of a joke. Mechatronic was $5000 inc GST, + fitting, and can be serviced etc. No brainer for me...
AnonymousInactive25/03/2013 at 4:03 amPost count: 41Hi GremlinI've had a couple of "non-serviceable" shocks given a freshen up with new seals, oil and gas by a shock mechanic in Rotorua to good effect. Don't believe everything in the manual 🙂
OK – Greg (& Gremlin) – thanks to you both for your helpful comments about suspensionI'd better desist so as we can return to the original topic of welcoming Greg as a user of this forumGremlin are you mod on here? - this dialogue would be useful under a FAQs about suspension methinks - Cheers Stephen aka Aslan 🙂
AnonymousInactive26/03/2013 at 6:01 amPost count: 289Gremlin are you mod on here? - this dialogue would be useful under a FAQs about suspension methinks - Cheers Stephen aka Aslan 🙂
Nope, no amazing powers in this here forum. Bwucie has moved it already though... I've even had my posts moderated, I know! Would you believe it?!oh, uh, right, back to suspension again ::)
AnonymousInactive26/03/2013 at 7:12 amPost count: 41Hi Aslan (& Gremlin)to know what you might want to do with a standard shock, you should start with static sag i.e. the amount the bike settles on the spring under its own weight, and then that with the rider and whatever else goes on the bike regularly (pillion and luggage). Someone else on the list with the same model as you that has already done the switch over to Ohlins may be able to provide static sag values (usually in mm). If you are in the right zone front and back and are only experiencing some loss of suspension control, then a freshen up of the shock(s) might be all you need (new seals and oil + gas). If your static sag values are outside the range (and particularly well outside the range) then stiffer spring(s) are required. As Gremlin noted, most aftermarket suspension components will be designed to be serviceable. On our ST I went for a lighter spring on the front, and a reasonably stiffer spring on the rear. You don't want to stiffen it up too much, as suspension is designed to move, the rest of it is about controlling the movement, and the speed of the movement. Robert Taylor has some excellent Youtube clips on suspension measurement of static sag etc. I'll see if I can find the link at post it This discussion has been the best welcome to the Forum I could have asked for. Good to get feedback and to be able to share experiences.
AnonymousInactive26/03/2013 at 7:20 amPost count: 41This is the link to setting static sag by Robert Taylor http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zboif you go to this link you'll find similar links cheersGreg
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