Home › Forums › Motorcycle Tech Talk › R850R Front Forks
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AnonymousInactive18/04/2007 at 11:02 pmPost count: 17
Hi all,Looking at purchasing an R850R, and have noticed some damage on the forks. The forward face of the top of the sliding section of the fork, looks like it has somehow come into contact with the back of the silver bracket that the headlight mounts to.Unfortunately I don't have any decent pics to show what exactly I mean. Arggghhh. Has anybody seen this sort of damage before? What would cause the front forks to compress enough, and the headlight mounts to move back enough, for contact to happen? I'm guessing some sort of ding at some point. Right hand cylinder cover has some minor damage, looks like from slow speed. Rest of bike checks out OK with good paint work, and the frame is in good nick. No damage on the telelever that I can see. Wheels are straight and undamaged.Any other hints at what to look for on the R850R gratefully received 😀Edit: OK, found a reasonable pic on the net, and added arrows to show where I'm talking about.CheersGraham
Hi GrahamFork stantions are not that long on the R850 and a decent pothole at good speed will compress them enough to do the sort of damge you describe. A decent set of progressive springs and some good quality, and slightly higer rated fork oil will do wonders for it.The R850 is a good bike all round and despite excessive mass at least has a decent boxer engine and advanced Telelever suspension. The width of the engine is a bit of an issue in town traffic but out on the open road the sophisticated suspension at both ends allow most bumps to be absorbed without the usual BMW ducking and diving. The 1100R has a major benefit of more torque, but the 850R is cheaper. It's a significant advance over the previous R100’s, but I think more attention should have been given to weight saving (sort of what BMW is up to now really), though it doesn’t show up too much once under way, thanks to the modern chassis.About 2,000 R850s, including some that came to NZ, manufactured between October 1994 - August 1996 were involved in one major recall. A sheet metal plate mounted to the front of the frame below the instrument cluster caused the wiring harness to be stretched too tight as the handlebar was turned fully to one side. Also, the wiring harness was attached to another harness with a cable tie that was placed too far forward, limiting the amount of free movement of the handlebar. The harness wires could have been damaged, broken, or pulled out of the ignition switch. If the harness wires were damaged, but not broken or disconnected, the electrical system could be affected while riding. Intermittent conditions such as hesitation, misfiring, or "cutting out" could occur. Make sure the one you’re thinking of buying has the cable tie further back so that the ignition switch wiring harness has sufficient freedom of movement. If the wiring harness is found to be damaged, the ignition switch (with harness) should be replaced by a dealer.Couple of folk I know with R850s were having a lot of trouble getting it into neutral, which of course means it wouldn’t start. I've heard that this is common for this bike. Just give the shift lever a light upward tap. With just a little practice you can get it almost every time. There really isn't a detent for neutral as on other bikes. Release the clutch lever slowly because the light does not necessarily indicate neutral. As far as I know the R850R will start in gear if you pull the clutch lever (as will most motorcycles). The other two things about the R850R (and probably most R bike) transmissions are:1) When stopped, to get into 1st from neutral, start with the clutch lever out (engaged). Gently depress the shifter until you meet resistance, then smoothly pull the clutch and depress the shift lever almost at the same time. There will be a slight clunk as the trans drops into 1st. The R bikes have a dry clutch, and it stops spinning so quickly that unless you use this method it can be hard to get into 1st gear. Wet clutch bikes always have some pressure from the oil, and are easier to get into 1st, but also have a pretty potent clunk when dropping into 1st.2) Down shifting to 2nd and 1st as you come up to a stop will result in a loud clunk in both gears. This is a problem with the transmission design and other bikes do not have this problem. R bike owners seem to cope by downshifting at lower speeds. In other words, downshift below 15kmh, just before you put your foot down. Although this is a pretty irritating "feature", apparently it doesn't harm the transmission.Also, if it’s got a steering damper it’ll no doubt leak at around 25,000kms. Look for a drop of oil on the damper, or a little puddle on the floor below it. The damper is below the Telelever lower support. This damper is not rebuildable and a new one is not cheap. It’ll still handle fine if not replaced but, if you’re going to replace get an aftermarket rebuildable damper.Whatever, if you like the bike, it's in good nick and you are happy with what you pay for it you'll love it. Enjoy!!CheersGarry
AnonymousInactive19/04/2007 at 10:24 amPost count: 17Thanks for the reply Garry, I've been surfing my way through this forum, and have downloaded the Getrag article found elsewhere which also details the 'features' of the gearbox. I wasn't aware of the recall, but will check the wiring next time I see the bike (it is being readied for sale at a BMW dealer at present).No steering damper fitted, so I guess it leaked at 25k 🙄The price is good, and apart from the damage to the forks/headlight mounts, the bike is in good (if dirty) condition. Factory panniers with it too, which will be good for those weekends away 👿As a mechanic myself (although not motorbike, but helicopter) I'm actually looking forward to giving the bike a tidy up myself, and have even been caught perusing the Wunderlich catalogue by the wife!! 😀 Only looking at Oil cooler grills and the like, to protect things.Anyhow, thanks for the reply. Might see you on the road sometimeGraham
AnonymousInactive21/04/2007 at 7:51 amPost count: 17Garry,Any idea where one might come across these progressive fork springs, if one was so inclined to be looking for them?Also, do you know how they affect the handling of the bike during cornering. Is there any bumpsteer? Does it become important to have a good steering damper fitted?I've had another look at the bike today, and it does indeed have a steering damper fitted.Thanks for any help offered.CheersGraham
AnonymousGuest21/04/2007 at 10:12 pmPost count: 2134Neil at Experience sourced progressives for me when I wore out the stanchions on the K100LT: the guy is a parts legend, I can't imagine a better start point for your search.
Garry,Any idea where one might come across these progressive fork springs, if one was so inclined to be looking for them?Also, do you know how they affect the handling of the bike during cornering. Is there any bumpsteer? Does it become important to have a good steering damper fitted?I've had another look at the bike today, and it does indeed have a steering damper fitted.Thanks for any help offered.CheersGraham
Hi GrahamNorthern Accessories are the local importers of Progressive Suspension products and should be able to source suitable springs. I agree with Bwucie though that a good place for you to start is with Neil at Experience, he da man!! But, if you want to go it alone, Motomail will source suitable springs from Northern Accessories for you (sadly, you can't get from wholesaler yourself as an individual) at a reasonable cost. Match these with some decent fork oil and you'll be sweet.CheersGarry
AnonymousInactive24/04/2007 at 7:33 amPost count: 17Excellent!! Thanks for all the info guys. We've going to purchase the bike. Just waiting for a couple of things to be tidied up. We'll see what we think of the front springs, and maybe look at the progressive spring option. Sounds like a good idea!!A shame BMW didn't think to ft a front shock with damping and rebound adjustment. I see they are available aftermarket, but I bet they aren't cheap!!Graham
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