R1200gs final drive kaput!

[Anonymous]

#3937

Yes really! It vomited it's vital fluid all over the southern motorway (and itself!).Although I have the knowledge and ability to do this myself ( I did the rebuild of my 1150 FD) this requires tools that I just don't have.Can anyone recommend someone, preferably in or near Auckland, that might be able to do it?I will be able to supply parts and instructions and am willing to pay for labour.John Redman

[Anonymous]

#16293

Sorry to hear that mate, that's an expensive shop repair,lets hope someone on the forum can help you out !I would think if you get a workshop manual and strip it down yourself the only tools required would be a press or some kind of extractor and a torque wrench,the rest is just nuts n bolts surely !Your one step ahead of me, I haven't even gone near a final drive and my GS has just ticked over 82,000There's a lot to be said for a chain drive,there is a visual indication of wear long before any failure occurs isn't there !!!!RegardsDave

[Anonymous]

#16294

Thanks Dave. It needs a puller for the disassembly but a standard gear puller won't fit behind the wheel flange. I suppose I could try and rig something up that attaches to the flange itself. The bearings themselves could probably just be drifted out with some heat and judicial use of brute force.Have asked Experience for a price although I am going to sit down when the phone rings! 😮 Hopefully someone will come up with the gem that I am looking for... 8)

[Anonymous]

#16295

Maybe you could just negotiate with Experience to do the workshop stuff if you take it to them and take care of the nuts and bolts dissasembly / re-assembly issue your self.There is an excellent engineering workshop next door to my place of work in avondale, he mostly deals with huge engines etc but I don't think there is anything that they can't do between them and their rates would be better than experience.I was quoted $93.00 an hour for my 80,00 K service and the anticipated bill would be approx $1000.00 pretty soon we will all be throwing our motorcycles away when they need a service Ha HaI can take care of most things on the bike myself,but I have no experience with the shaft drive mechanism and I must say it does make me nervous when I hear of them failing with such expensive consequences.I have heaps of tools,spanners, sockets,rubber mallet torque wrench, oxyacetylene etc,etc at your disposal if you need anything just holla !RegardsDave

[Anonymous]

#16296

Oh dear, oh dear!  Been there, done that, and it's a bloody expensive tee-shirt John.Went the hard way, Experience a.k.a. Expensive with the eleven-hundy-ess, when it was finally got right at the third attempt, the bike got destroyed, which hurt my sense of humour.  (Guy that bought the wreck off Aon reckons the final drive and gearbox still run good, so they'll take a hell of a hit once they are set up right!)Years ago with the K100, I got my local spanner man to strip out the final drive and BMW (the technician downstairs at Mt Wellington that was holding things together after the Rover debacle) did the reassembly and set the preloads, local man bolted it all up.  Somewhat cheaper.

[Anonymous]

#16297

not going to complain. Experience had me running for my next weekend ride. $800 all in(for main bearing, labour and warranty?). main  bearing ball cage failed but not catastrophically. started leaking fluid slowly. never got to the dump stage. 110K! Do Jap ST1300 diffs fail so early? Teutonic Torture Bwucie! A Vstrom is looking real. Comfort/posture, pace/power. Wellington-AKL on a previous SV650 motor version, no grizzles. Latest Gladius motor version should blow my brains. Ok my slippers got wet and my pipe smoke got blown around a little, but the price difference and on-going maintenance should compensate and afford some aftermarket protection. I think I can see two bikes. eh boss?

[Mark Mackay]

#16298

Its not all that bad,is it just the outer seal? If its that only Experience  can replace it on the bike ,seal cost, diff oil and about 1 hours labour.If its the bearings that have failed that is a bit more expensive.Is there any side play or rumble in the rear wheel? If You need a new Final Drive I have one for sale,just had main bearings replaced.For more details or info give Me a call on 021 993 708 .Richard

[Anonymous]

#16299

No warning signs that I noticed just a slight hesitation, like a misfire almost, that I now think was the bearing “catching”. Then a slight vibration through the footrests. I stopped and checked tyres, brakes, wheel etc. no obvious problem. A few km later… >:( oil everywhere.I am fairly sure the bearing has suffered a "separation of components" due to fact that there is play in the rear wheel where there was none previously.Thanks Richard I will give you a call tomorrow.

[Anonymous]

#16300

The hardest part at the moment is getting parts to arrive in expected condition. Took 4 switches to get 2 that worked, and 2 headlights to get 1 that worked (Yup, a brand new one arrived pre-broken)…Yes... it's getting slightly irritating now.  😮

[Dave Ross]

#16301

, so they'll take a hell of a hit once they are set up right!)

Yep, they do. My 1150 has been rear-ended twice. The final drive has done 161000km. It's still good. Have bought a new bearing and seal 60000km ago. Hope I haven't jinxed it.

[peter.trub]

#16302

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234400

[Anonymous]

#16303

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234400

I found this quite informative too, from the same forum link,worth watching especially his tutorial on preload measurment.http://www.bmwlt.com/uploads/lt_final_drive_rebuild.wmv

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