R1150XX pivot bearings

[Ron McFadzien]

#15546

Having read all the above I had a check of mine on the R1100s with almost 80,000km on the clock.  I could find no movement at all.How come some pivot bearings  need replacing so often? I did however just have to fit new oil seals in the final drive. Oil was being thrown all over the back wheel. Really helps with grip on the corners ::)

Did you visually check the large bearing cage when you had the seal out? From all I have read thats the first sign of a bearing failure the oil leak.boGSer

[honeybear.2399]

#15547

Having read all the above I had a check of mine on the R1100s with almost 80,000km on the clock.  I could find no movement at all.How come some pivot bearings  need replacing so often? I did however just have to fit new oil seals in the final drive. Oil was being thrown all over the back wheel. Really helps with grip on the corners ::)

Did you visually check the large bearing cage when you had the seal out? From all I have read thats the first sign of a bearing failure the oil leak.boGSer

No, thanks why did you not tell me before? "Only Kidding"  I should add the work was done in a BMW shop and they did also replace some other oil seals that are in there somewhere so I would hope they did.  Job cost was $375 Including the use of another bike so we could get home and back. I was happy. Phil

[Anonymous]

#15548

sure Alex holding beers always makes light work give us a email if short on any resources.

[Dave Ross]

#15549

I've got my bearings and managed to get hold of a tuber of Molybond 50. It's expensive, but the 100gm tube should last a long time. The bearings are pre-lubricated, do you recommend to take them apart and use the moly to lubricate them?

[Ron McFadzien]

#15550

Hi Alex, You have to split the bearings ie: take the cup off the cone to install them anyway I wouldn't wash out the grease that is already on them, but would put some moly paste in the cup and around the outside of the cone (on and between the rollers) this will push through the cage when you push the 2 halfs back together. Did you get the Moly Paste from Blackwoods? Now you have plenty you could pull out the drive shaft and lube the splines at the same time. That is remove it from the gearbox end and the final drive end to give all the splines a good lube. A tyre lever on either side is a good tool to pop it off the circlips.Remember not to put to much preload on the bearings new ones as per manual and used a little less than spec. I read on ADV someone who overtightened the swing arm bearings and popped the side out of the gearbox housing. 7Nm is not very tight. You shouldn't have any trouble.Gerard

[Dave Ross]

#15551

Thanks for the advice. How hard will it be to get the drive shaft back onto the gearbox end? Will it be like trying to stuff a worm back into a hole? I've never had the splines lubed, so it would be good if I could do that as well.

[Ron McFadzien]

#15552

Its a bit of mucking around if you are not going to take the swingarm out. I would suggest that you remove the rear shock that way the swingarm is not in the down position you can tie it up and get at the rubber boot which has a spring clip holding it in position. To put the shaft back on the gearbox end, start it on the spline have the swingarm level IE: the drive shaft as square as possible with the shaft grab a block of wood that will fit in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer should just pop back into position. Then you can move the swingarm and check it. It pays to put a white mark on the end of the shaft so you can line up the universals as best you can. I dont think the phase up correctly the splines aren't welded in the correct place for that but get them as close as possible.boGSer

[Dave Ross]

#15553

Thanks for that. I am not sure at this stage if I will be brave enough to remove the drive shaft. I need the bike to get to work and can't have it sitting there for several weekends, while I try to fiddle the drive shaft back onto the splines. When I had the R80 drive shaft out, it was hard enough to drop it back down the swing arm to connect to the final drive. I suspect that trying to get it in while it's horizontal will be very difficult.

[Dave Morris]

#15554

Its a bit of mucking around if you are not going to take the swingarm out. I would suggest that you remove the rear shock that way the swingarm is not in the down position you can tie it up and get at the rubber boot which has a spring clip holding it in position. To put the shaft back on the gearbox end, start it on the spline have the swingarm level IE: the drive shaft as square as possible with the shaft grab a block of wood that will fit in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer should just pop back into position. Then you can move the swingarm and check it. It pays to put a white mark on the end of the shaft so you can line up the universals as best you can. I dont think the phase up correctly the splines aren't welded in the correct place for that but get them as close as possible.boGSer

easy bro use that thing called garvity. got a big tree near ya house. Park the bike near the tree and wrap a rope around the rear wheel. throw other end af rope over tree branch. Get two fat fellas (rotund will do) and ya self and hang bike in air with front wheel facing terrafirma.stand on stool or sit on Gerdas shoulders and drop driveshaft down the holeeasy ehhaw 

[Dave Ross]

#15555

Its a bit of mucking around if you are not going to take the swingarm out. I would suggest that you remove the rear shock that way the swingarm is not in the down position you can tie it up and get at the rubber boot which has a spring clip holding it in position. To put the shaft back on the gearbox end, start it on the spline have the swingarm level IE: the drive shaft as square as possible with the shaft grab a block of wood that will fit in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer should just pop back into position. Then you can move the swingarm and check it. It pays to put a white mark on the end of the shaft so you can line up the universals as best you can. I dont think the phase up correctly the splines aren't welded in the correct place for that but get them as close as possible.boGSer

easy bro use that thing called garvity. got a big tree near ya house. Park the bike near the tree and wrap a rope around the rear wheel. throw other end af rope over tree branch. Get two fat fellas (rotund will do) and ya self and hang bike in air with front wheel facing terrafirma.stand on stool or sit on Gerdas shoulders and drop driveshaft down the holeeasy ehhaw 

Hold your horses Forrest. Why would I hang the rear wheel into a tree? That will be leaning against the wall, while the final drive will be sitting on my workbench. However, I could hang it up by the front wheel. Then all I would have to do is to balance the drive shaft on a finger tip, walk under the bike and throw it up into the drive shaft tunnel onto the splines. A bit of sticky grease should hold it up there.

[Dave Morris]

#15556

cant pull the lube over your eyes can we

[Dave Ross]

#15557

cant pull the lube over your eyes can we

That stuff is way too expensive for that. $40 for 100 grams

[Dave Ross]

#15558

Since the weather was just right for working on the bike I've changed the pivot bearings today. It took about 2 hours, but a lot of that was taken up with cleaning threads and mopping up Acetone. The wheel no longer wiggles and hopefully the bearings will last a bit longer than the set I've replaced. I have made myself a tool to seat the bearings, so if anyone wants to borrow that, let me know. Two things I forgot to do. One was to drink a beer halfway through and the other was to but some weight on the bike before tightening the drive shaft brace. I am going remedy the situation right now. I guess if you haven't been wearing out bearings at the rate I have, pay someone to do the job, but I have to do it once a year and have saved myself $200 in the process. Thanks for all the helpful comments, especially BoGSer's advice.P.S. I think I got the drive shaft phasing right, but what symptoms would I get from an out of phase shaft?

[Ron McFadzien]

#15559

Well done, you would have a vibration coming from the driveline but it seems they dont phase them any more so there must be new thinking on that front. Back when I was replacing drive shatf universal joints, you used to have to make sure you put them back together with the joints lined up X-X but in the early 90s we noticed that Range Rover where no longer keeping there drive shaft aligned in fact I remember pulling a shaft off a new vehicle to try and fix it but it was impossible the way the shaft was welded together so we checked a few more out and they where all the same. If the bike rides the same as it did before you started just ride and enjoy.Got the good bike out of the shed at the weekend an had a shake down ride 400kms now its riding season again time to crank up some Kms.boGSerThis is as good as yo can get them now.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472815

[Anonymous]

#15560

..........Got the good bike out of the shed at the weekend an had a shake down ride 400kms now its riding season again time to crank up some Kms.boGSerThis is as good as yo can get them now.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472815

Is there such a thing as a not-riding season?I guess if the snow is up over ya headlight would be a good reason to park up, but other than that?

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