R1100S Suspension

[Anonymous]

#3591

I am finding the ride a bit harsh on our “country” roads and am looking at aftermarket springs and or shocks – other than Ohlins have others been tried and what results have been obtained.My bike is on stock suspension & springs I run no preload and about 8 clicks on the front shock

[Richard Kuysten]

#14856

Hi Billy, if you're not using any pre load then I'm assuming the “8 clicks” is dampening? i would have thought a balance was necessary e.g. the more pre load the more dampening and if you can adjust both front and rear have a play with both.  Take a look in your owners manual to get a basic setting.Good luck

[Anonymous]

#14857

Hi Malcolm , I started with the basic setting which from memory is 6 turns preload on the rear and 6 clicks short of max on the front (rebound control) I suspect my 80kg frame does not compress the suspension much as the  suspension feels like it is topping out and it looks like there is very little static compression. 

[Richard Kuysten]

#14858

Hi Billy, perhaps Bwucie will pick up on this as he has the S and might be able to help out.  And from seeing him in his speedo's I'd hazard he's not even 80kgs  ;D

[Anonymous]

#14859

Thanks Malcolm , I had a quick chat with Bwucie last week which prompted me to wind back the rebound on the front a bit more than I had. We concluded the S could be sprung for someone closer to about our combined weights It is a lot stiffer sprung than the Ducati 900SS

[Anonymous]

#14860

Thanks Malcolm , I had a quick chat with Bwucie last week which prompted me to wind back the rebound on the front a bit more than I had. We concluded the S could be sprung for someone closer to about our combined weights

Probably why I have not noticed any issues.

[Anonymous]

#14861

Hi Billy, perhaps Bwucie will pick up on this as he has the S and might be able to help out.  And from seeing him in his speedo's I'd hazard he's not even 80kgs  ;D

Had three weeks off, and decided to not consult my list of gunnas at all.  So I sat close to the fridge and the larder with a BIG pile of library books.  Now I AM 80 Kgs, but that won't last long.I seriously don't think the eleven-hundy-ess was ever meant for New Zealand roads.  While I love the bike to bits, it is way too harsh for all but motorways.  On the back road twisties I enjoy so much I can't keep up with moderately competent GS jockeys - long soft suspension sucks up bumps that have my gold crowns rattling on my teeth.  And on any road you want to nominate, DTY goes past anytime he likes on either the motard or the 75.  😛Doesn't matter: my lifestyle demands an R1100S, and when I stand by it outside a cafe it makes me look like a real biker.  😀

[Anonymous]

#14862

Pretty much sums up my perception of it:I go for a burn up the country road and 1100S  is harsh on the corrogations, is easily unsettled and jumps around, park it up go do the same on the Ducati 900SS and it is an easier steer feels planted but needs more work to keep it on the boil. Seriously contemplating Ohlins shocks

[Anonymous]

#14863

Thanks Bwucie.  The motard takes its toll on my teeth as well, and arse.  The 75, however, is like riding on a cloud.  A heavy, bendy, squirmy cloud with ten-speed tyres.You DO look like a biker next to that bike!  And like Billy Crystal used to say, "It's not how you feel, it's how you look.  And you look Marvelous!"You guys might have a skim through this article down to the track session suspension settings.  I wouldn't know first hand, but you might not be generous enough with backing out the front rebound.  That guy said he backed it out 14 clicks, and that was for the track.http://www.motorbikestoday.com/reviews/Articles/bmw_r1100s_03.htmDTY

[Anonymous]

#14864

I have read that article it  rather ambiguous in its use of terminology and the writer does not comment on his weight or riding style, any previous set uip and how it rode so there are no “references” to work from. The standard factory shock settings are pretty reasonable  but backing the preload right off and winding the rebound down generally means the spring rate and shock rate are no longer working together - which is why I suspect the spring rate is too high for my body weight. On smooth roads it is definitely better with more rear preload and front rebound as you get nice sharp turn in and power out of corners

[Mark]

#14865

Hi Guys I own a 2000 model with the blue shocks and find it rides well, but I also own a 2006  with the yellow shocks and find these much harder than the blue shocks .some times u just have to put up with what you have .Darryl

[Anonymous]

#14866

Darryl, do you mean blue and yellow springs ? I am on Blue springs

[peter.trub]

#14867

Just to chuck in a curve ball from left field here  ;D One of the most commonly overlooked adjustments of a vehicles suspension are the tyre pressures  😮As you were men  8)

[Anonymous]

#14868

Check these weekly, manual says 220kPa front and 250 Rear : spoke with Motohansa in Aus and they recommended 250kPa front and 300 rear.( that's 32/36 and 36/40 if you you are using the old money from 1970)

[peter.trub]

#14869

One thing to remember is that recomendations are made by manufacturers. They are looking to provide a quality product. So what is quality? In terms of tyres we (the consumer) generaly look for first performance (grip etc) then wear. Wear is very much affected by (leaving compounds tread patterns etc out) pressure. So most manufacturers will recomend a high safe pressure to extend life of the tyre. Most tyres can run and still perform under normal riding pressures at less than what the manufacturers spec. Decreased pressure means softer ride  ;DThe best way I have found to set pressures to suit my riding style is: Check pressure before warming up tyre, go for a ride (thats the fun part) then recheck pressures once tyres are warm. If pressure has risen by more than 2 degrees tyres are underinflated. If not next time the tyres are cold let out a psi and redo until you reach the lowest pressure you can run your tyres at. (Note if pressure rise is more than 5 psi at manufacturers start pressure check your shocks.

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