Coolant type…

[Richard Kuysten]

#1489

Any advice on anti freeze type – manual says “nitrite free” I understand this is the RED stuff but not sure? Took a look in Repco today and nowhere could i find any information re Nitrite free antifreeze on the various bottles nor could the assistants help. 😕

Malcolm

[Dave Ross]

#4952

Is it for a bike or your car?

[Paul]

#4953

Some general points on AF (from what I can remember from a previous life).

Basically there are three main types of AF - mono-ethylene glycol based, mono-propylene glycol based and methanol-based. Each of these bases then gets a "mix" of inhibitors added depending on the manufacturer. These inhibitors include anti-foaming agents, anti-corrosion agents and a dye. AVOID any AF with SMBT (sodium mercaptobenzotriazole - I think) sorry - can't remember why, but just recall it being a no-no.

The dye is simply there for show, with different manufacturers using different colours.

Of the three base products, don't touch methanol. The difference between MEG and MPG in terms of performance is very small. However, MPG is less harmful to the environment.

Don't mix different AF products.

Decent brands to go for - Prestone, Peak (not sure if available in NZ).

I also recall that some manufacturers were offering already diluted AF! So make sure you only buy the concentrated stuff and don't waste your money on buying water.

Hope this is of some interest/help.

Malcolm, I have an AF tester if you want to check dilution.

[Richard Kuysten]

#4954

It’s for the GS Alex, the current coolant is clear so I want to replace just in case it has gradually be diluted.

Thanks for all the tech stuff Martyn, still not sure which is "nitrate" free but no hurry so I'll persevere. No doubt someone will know. The various types I have seen don't give a lot of technical information but do list some or all of the ingredients. I may have to go to the fount of all information Neil at Experience. 🙂

[Dave Ross]

#4955

I know this is not going to help either, but I always thought the cooland should be phospate and silica free.
I didn't know about the nitrate, either. I have decided to service Gerda's bike myself. So this interesting to me as well. Malcolm, is there a haynes manual for the GS/CS series of bikes? I figure the fairing will be a pain to take off. I had to take the rear half of the bike apart, just to change the tail light. The only positive thing is that the fasteners aren't made of japanese cheese steel like on my CX500.

[Anonymous]

#4956

Alex

This site will have all you want to know on the CS

http://www.f650.com/Forums/ShowPost.aspx?PostID=34258

[Richard Kuysten]

#4957

Alex, my owners handbook says “nitrite” not sure if there is a difference, perhaps our chemist members will tell us. I have been a member of the “Chain Gang” for years since owning my first Funduro and it is cerainly a great site with lot’s of useful info – but other than saying to use the ‘red’ anti freeze it gives no other help in identifying which is which.

I've had the left hand side of the psuedo tank off and it is a breeze so I imagine it's the same for the other side.

Malcolm

[Richard Kuysten]

#4958

So I did the obvious thing and googled 🙄 the bloody thing. Heaps of stuff advertising Nitrite (and just about every other chemical) free AF. Shell do a heavy duty one and I will contact them tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

Malcolm

[Richard Kuysten]

#4959

Further to this AF thing – I had downloaded a page from the “Chain Gang” web site on how to do a coolant change but not yet read it. Just reading through it does in fact give some information. The bottom line states “That’s it. If you do not use Non-Silicate coolant you MAY end up doing the water pump replacement sooner than you should. Not proven, but the GS water pump has failed too, it’s not just a Classic problem.” So I guess the answer is in the “non-silicate” statement.

Malcolm

[David]

#4960

Buy this from the larger Caltex stops.
Or come and get the bottle of BMW coolant that Neil should have sold you 🙄 I dont need it any more as I now have an oilhead.
I also have a Clymer F650 1994-2000 manual which I'll let go of for a small fee. Pulling the 650GS apart is easy and fun 😀
'COOLANT' is a 50/50 mix of de-ionised water (rainwater to you) and a chemical whose main job is to prevent corrosion inside the engine. It has an added benefit of lowering the freezing point and raising the boiling point of the coolant - not so important in Jafaland 😉
Most waterpump failures are caused by poor coolant maintenance, e.g. adding water instead of the 50/50 mix. Too little coolant will cause cavitation erosion (water pump suffers first ) and too much coolant causes the engine to run at higher temperatures as it tends to retain heat.
I wrote this a few years ago, along with the rest of the website.
http://www.yanmarhelp.com/s_coolant.htm
The problems shown here stopped once we started using Havoline ELC.
"Havoline Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant keeps protecting for up to five years or 150,000 miles." Beat that.

[Richard Kuysten]

#4961

Many thanks Dick, that’s just what I was hoping for. I would be interested in the Clymer and will give you a call.

Malcolm

[Dave Ross]

#4962

I’ve been using distilled water in my car. It’s cheap enough in the warehouse or supermarket.

Is there a manual for the CS as well, or is that covered by the the F650 GS manual? In that case I'll wait until Malcolm buys yours and them pester him for a photo copy of the relevant pages.

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